1. Rusticated or sandblasted pipes are cooler than smooth pipes. There is a difference, but only a sophisticated heat measuring device can tell; the human hand (or tongue, for that matter) cannot discern such a minute difference.
2. Pipe grain is not important. While it is true that a pipe needs to be fully covered in grain to produce a cool smoke, and to prevent burn-through, there is little difference--if any--between a beautiful straight grain pipe and one with random graining. There is a theory (or, rather, a hypothesis) that the heat goes up and out of straight grain, but this has never been scientifically demonstrated.
3. One can buy a good pipe for ten dollars. This is patently untrue. A decent pipe simply cannot be produced for so little money, particularly since a ten dollar pipe, after you consider the costs of manufacture, distribution, and wholesaling, is really only a $2.50 pipe. Such "bargains" will have little or no grain and will be full of putty fills. One can buy a fairly good $40.00 or $50.00 pipe which, although not very attractive, will provide its owner with a decent smoke. Purchasing a factory second, or an estate pipe, will often prove rewarding.
4. A five-hundred-dollar pipe will smoke better than a one-hundred-dollar pipe. No, it just looks better. There is a law of diminishing returns here. There is evidence that a hundred-dollar pipe will be superior to a $40.00 pipe, but that’s about it. After you reach the hundred-dollar plateau, the cost is reflected in grain, ornamentation, use of silver, pipe size, briar age, and brand name. In a sense, though, one might say there is an "insurance" factor at work when you purchase a Ser Jacopo, or other premium brand, in that certain manufacturers have a reputation to maintain and will not knowingly send an inferior pipe to market.
5. You must break in a pipe by filling it one-sixth full the first time, then two-sixths, and so on. This has been a controversial matter for decades, if not centuries. Recommendations run the gamut from infinitesimal amounts to filling up the pipe all the way the first time. The Larsen family has always advocated the latter, and there is solid evidence that this is the correct way to go. However, for this to work, one must smoke the tobacco all the way down or the bottom section will never accumulate a protective char.
6. How you pack a pipe is unimportant. There’s no controversy here: good packing is essential, however tedious you might find the process. Why anyone would rush this process remains a mystery--rapid packing saves two minutes at best, so why spoil a good smoke or have to re-pack because of impatience? Use the old tried and true: a pinch at a time, lightly tamping after each pinch, with a final tamping at the top of the bowl; the tobacco should be springy. Quick rescue--you can sometines avoid re-packing by running a pipe cleaner into the bottom of the bowl, which loosens the tobacco.
7. Proper cleaning of a pipe is not crucial. Again, no controversy: there is no escapng the fact that proper cleaning is a must. The good news is, it’s simple and inexpensive. After each smoke, just run a pipe cleaner all the way through the pipe without taking it apart, then double the cleaner over and swab the bowl. If the pipe cleaner won’t go all the way through from bit to bowl bottom, wait until the pipe is cool and take it apart. Of course, every time you dismantle a pipe the connection becomes looser. Invest in a cleaning cloth set, consisting of a briar cleaning cloth and a bit cleaner. Never use the bit cleaner on wood surfaces. Use the kit once every five smokes. If you have silver trim, buy a two-stage jeweler’s cloth at a department store, cleaning the surface with the interior cloth, and polishing with the exterior cloth.
8. You don’t have to let a pipe cool before cleaning. Well, yes and no. No, if you’re going to gently remove the dottle, and run a pipe cleaner through it without disassembling; yes, if you want to disassemble and thoroughly clean it. There is always the risk of splitting the shank if you fool with a hot pipe. There seems little or no chance this can occur with a military bit or a silver spigot, but caution should prevail.
9. You must store your tobacco very carefully. This is a matter of individual preference and--perhaps--how paranoid you are about your stock. Climate may be a factor if you live under extreme conditions (too hot, too cold, too damp, too dry) and the inside of your home is affected. For most people, though, storing in a dry, clean place will do the trick. You can invest in special humidors, fancy gadgetry, and so on, but rarely does it pay off in better tobacco.
10. All tobacco is ready to smoke. Leaving aside tobaccos which obviously require preparation, such as tightly packed tin tobaccos, flake, etc, even bulk sold tobaccos may require some preparation. Many Cavendish varieties are too wet to smoke right away. And some of them are full of "weeds." One way to dry tobacco, and do it gradually so you don’t have to re-hydrate, is to spread it out in a shoe box lid, with or without a light above it, and check it every hour or so until it seems just right. Bear in mind that, if it becomes too dry, you will lose flavor, and if it’s still too wet, you’ll have a damp, tongue-biting smoke. If you want to keep the weeds (prevalent in some imports), grind them up and put them back into the mix. You can also take a small portion of the tobacco (about 10%) and grind it, too, putting it back in. The resulting blend will light more easily, but be aware of stray bits which may come through the bowl and land on your tongue. Some smokers keep a little container of ground tobacco (something fairly neutral, like very light Burley) to sprinkle on top of the bowl's contents to aid in lighting.