4-6 inch x 6 ft x 3/4 inch treated fence boards from Home Depot. $3.96
1-8 ft x 2 in x 3/4 inch furring strip $.65
16-1 1/4 inch exterior screws $1.00
12-2 inch exterior screws $1.00
6 mil plastic sheeting 30 inches x 7 ft $1.00
Ground cloth 2 ft x 6 ft and 3 ft x 3 ft $1.50
plastic or fiberglass screen 3 ft diameter $1.50
1-1/2 inch PVC pipe 6 ft long $1.00
2-1/2 inch PVC end cap $.34
1-1/2 in OD vinyl tubing 2 in long $.10
4-1 inch 3/8 od (1/8th id) vinyl tubing $.10
Small amount of black or dark paint $.25
3 feet of 1/2 in garden hose $1.00
1-30 gallon garbage can $6.98
1 submersable pump. Maxi-jet 750 or Rio 600 $20.00
4-3 gallon nursery pots $2.00
1-2 cubic ft bag of cypress chips $1.80
TOTAL $44.18
The above pump can easily supply nutrient to 8 additional pots, making the cost of a 12 pot system approximately $95.00 if all parts are bought. Except for the pump, substitute parts could be used that are often found in a scrap pile out in the garage.
Basic materials to build channel to hold four 3 gallon pots in drip system. I chose these materials because of either their availability or cost. The fence boards cost 99 cents(US) each at Home Depot. The furring strip was 65 cents,(I substituted a couple pieces of scrap 1x4 for part of the furring strip), the plastic is greenhouse covering, but could be common 6 mil plastic sheeting if protected from the sun. The ground cloth is used to keep the sun from hitting the nutrient,and help hold the pots in place. This prevents algae growth. Any non metal material that will block the sun could be used. There are any number of substutite materials that could be used instead of the ones shown as long as the basic rules of no toxic material or any metal other than stanless steel in contact with the nutrient.
Cut 5 pieces of the 1x2 furring strip 1 1/2 inches wider than 2 of the fence boards. This will give you a 3/4 inch lip on each side to help hold the sides. On a flat surface, adjust the furring strips at each end of the boards with the other two evenly spaced between them. Run the screws through the boards to the furring strip, using 2 of the 1 1/4 inch screws per board per furring strip(16 total). Depending on the wood you use it might be necessary to drill the screw holes first. There is no problem if the boards do not fit well together because the plastic will be the water tight seal.
Set one side in place and place a 2 inch screw sideways through the side board into the bottom board at each furring strip. (you will probably need to drill first to insure that the screw goes straight into the bottom board) After both sides are installed, place the 5th piece of furring strip on one end. Run screws through the furring strip into the ends of the side pieces. (An extra board could be purchased and cut and used for the end board making the end the same height as the sides) This will help to prevent the nutrient from backing out the upper end and also help stabilize the side. pieces.
Place the plastic on top of the finished wood trough and fit to the shape of the trough. This can be easily done by using a couple pieces of scrap 2x4 or similar shaped object that does not have sharp edges. Gently use the 2x4s to fit the plastic into the bottom edges of the trough. One on each side. Fit the plastic to the furring strip end allow the excess to extend out from the outlet end. This gives you a channel for the nutrient falling into the garbage can. When fitted, staple the plastic on the top of the side boards and end furring strip. One staple per foot is sufficient to hold it. Be very carefull not to puncture the plastic any where other than where the staples go through.
Prepare the groung cloth by burning round holes about the same diameter as the bottom of the pots you will use. On a 6 ft long piece of ground cloth burn the correct diameter hole beginning 1 inch in from the ends at about the center of the width. After the two end holes are finished, place two more equally spaced between the end holes. Staple the ground cloth on the top of the side boards with the holes alligned both length and width. This finishes the channel construction.
The cypress chips are placed into the pots and the pots are placed into the channel. I have never had to buy a black nursery pot as shown. There are an abundance of them free if one knows where to look. The stores that sell plants in the pots always have some around that did not sell or the plant died. They will usually be happy to have someone take them. Another source is people who buy the plants, put them in the ground and then throw the pot in the garbage. I often see them setting out on garbage pickup day. There is any number of types of wood chips that can be used. Pea gravel can be used , but it can be quite heavy. If money is no problem, there are expanded clay grow rocks that work very well. Cypress happens to be the cheapest medium where I live.
The drippers are made from 1/2 inch pieces of 3/16th inch OD vinyl tubing pushed into 1/2 inch thinwall PVC. Cut the PVC to a length where the ends are above the first and last pot, tap an end cap on each end.(glue is not needed) Lay the PVC on the pots and mark the center of each pot on the PVC. Drill a hole slightly less than 3/16th inch at each mark and slip a 1/2 inch piece of the 3/16th inch OD vinyl tubing 1/4 inch into the PVC. They probably will not leak around the tube, but if they do it will just fall into the pot. The inlet end cap is drilled slightly less than 1/2 inch in the center of the cap. A piece of 1/2 in OD vinyl tubing 3 inches long is cut. When using a 1/2 inch ID garden hose to the pump, the 1/2 inch OD vinyl tube will fit tight inside the garden hose on one end and into the hole drilled in the end cap on the other end. Push them together tight so sunlight doesn't hit the vinyl tube and grow algae inside. Don't worry about it leaking because if it is cut to the correct length, the fitting will be above one of the pots. If the first 3/16th inch vinyl feed tube is placed about 1 inch from the inlet end of the 1/2 inch PVC , the inlet fitting will be over the first pot, and any dripping will just fall into the pot. The same is true for the last pot. In actual practice,I have no leaks.
I use thinwall PVC which lets enough light through for algae growth, so I paint the PVC and 3/16th OD vinyl tubing black. For those growing in a hot area, painting white over the black PVC will help keep nutrient temperatures down. If I did not paint it, it would plug with algae in a matter of days. Thick wall PVC (sch 40) might block the light, but I have never used it.
In all cases I run 2 channels side by side,(8 pots) so I need 2 of everything.
Drip in action.
A plastic or fiberglass screen is placed over the nutrient tank(garbage can) This serves two purposes. It stops anything from falling into the nutrient tank that might cause the pump to stop working. It also keeps mosquitoes and other water breeding insects out of the nutrient tank. In some cases it will also keep your dog from drinking the nutrient mix. Be sure that the screen is below the top of the can so the nutrient doesn't splash out as it falls to the tank. 
The last step is to cover the nutrient tank with the 3 ft x 3 ft ground cloth. I usually put 2 small nails in the top of the side boards and tie the ground cloth with string. You must be able to open it every couple of days to replenish the nutrient that has been used.
Any place that the sun makes contact with the nutrient, algae will grow.
Algae also will grow on top of the pots, but causes no problems.The above information is provided for those new to hobby hydroponics and those who might want to try a different system. In some cases the information might not be relevent for use in a commercial operation.
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